Stan Hywet Hall and Gardens, Akron

On the one hand, you can get in your car and drive to Toronto to visit Casa Loma spending all that money for gas. When you cross into Canada, those used to that great currency exchange rate will be sorely disappointed to find that right now it is about equal, 1 dollar for 1 loony. On the other hand, you can visit Stan Hywet Hall and Gardens in Akron, and see a spectacular piece of Americana that not a whole lot of people from the Youngstown area know about.

Stan Hywet was the country estate of Franklin Augustus Seiberling, the founder of Goodyear Tire in Akron. Built in 1912 at the height of the American industrial explosion, it is representative of that golden and gilded era when country estates for American industrialists were making the scene. Is that the Great Gatsby walking in the distance? Akron was becoming the rubber capital of America, and this was the fitting palace for its industrial patron. It is fabulous.

Stan Hywet is a 65 room mansion sitting on 70 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds and gardens, pared down from its original 1000 acres. It is intimidating and inviting all at the same time. And what is most remarkable is that it was an actual home until 1955 when F.A. Seiberling died at the age of 95. People actually lived like this. It served as host for a who’s who of American politicians, industrialists, and celebrities, as well as a home for the Seiberling family. Its history is filled with parties and family gatherings, and it is still hosting people today.

In 1957 the Seiberling family donated the house to a non-profit preservation society who has lovingly restored, preserved and enhanced this marvelous piece of architecture and American history. Today, the mansion house is open for tours, and be prepared to be wowed with its stunning architecture, 23 overwhelming fireplaces, 21000 panels of glass, and woodwork, furnishings and objects imported from around the world. Everything that has been restored has been done in period fabrics and style. It has to be seen to be believed.

Outside, the gardens are designed so something is blooming all of time. There is a Japanese Garden, and English Garden, a wild flowers meadow…one is more stunning than the next. Not only will you walk in these meticulously designed gardens by renowned American landscape architect Warren Manning, take a look around at the stunning views of the valleys surrounding the grounds. These folks knew how to live.

Stan Hywet runs numerous events throughout the year from concerts to plays to antique car shows to quilt shows to an outstanding Ohio mart that covers the grounds with craftsmen from all over the country. Plan on spending some time at the mart. It is a huge show. At Christmas, the place is decorated to the nines with all sorts of seasonal activities scheduled throughout November and December. Check the website for special events for whatever time of the year.

If you still have some time after your visit to this wonderful place, you may want to take some time to drive through the nearby Cuyahoga Valley National Park, especially in the fall. It is a magnificent ride that will take you through Peninsula, Ohio. Folks, New England has nothing over this part of the great State of Ohio. It is amazing what is so close to home.

Stan Hywet Hall and Gardens
714 N. Portage Path
Akron, OH
330 836-5533

Put-in-Bay, Ohio

Last summer, some old law school buddies called me and asked if my wife and I would like to get together for a mini-reunion. Sounded like fun to me. Both of these guys owned condos in Port Clinton, Ohio, and suggested we drive there and visit Put-in-Bay. I had never been there, and my wife had always wanted to visit one of the Lake Erie islands…so off we went. It is a little bit west of Cedar Point, so allow at least 3 hours for driving time.

So you like to party? Folks, this is the place. Just a short jet express boat ride from Port Clinton, and it is time to Paar-tay!!!!

What a great place. I’m not sure how to describe it. We were only there for 4 hours; but one thing for sure, you can drink, and drink a lot, and the only thing you have to be concerned about is falling into Lake Erie. We got there around 1:00 in the afternoon, and the booze was flowing, the people were singing, and…well, it was a bit much to take in. If you are looking for classy summer resort stuff, this ain’t it. This is get down and boogie heaven.

I am not sure how the island handles the excessive alcohol imbibing. You can ferry your car there with proper reservations, but for the most part you get around riding bikes or driving golf carts. The marina is huge, and at first blush, it would appear that the drinking would be more of a boating issue as opposed to a driving issue. Folks were plastered, on the boats, off the boats, and everywhere in between.

The center of the action is a place called the Roundhouse Bar. True to its name, it is round. No little kidders allowed. This is a party place. Open from noon until 2:30 AM, the entertainment is non stop. When we were there, it was provided by Mike “Mad Dog” Adams, and the name is appropriate to the provided entertainment. The guy was hysterical, and XXX rated. This guy is on the road 200 days a year, and hits all of the major party spots in Canada and the United States. He is THE headliner for the summer on Put-in Bay. CD’s are available in the lobby.

The jet boat to Put-in-Bay drops you off at the entrance to the town square. It is definitely picturesque to say the least, with a park and picnic tables being the center that the businesses are built around. There is some shopping, but mostly touristy stuff and resort wear…lots of gift shops. Great fudge and ice cream.

There are plenty of places to chow down. I didn’t see any white table cloth places, but mucho aquatic themed restaurants serving Lake Erie perch sandwiches, among other delicacies. We ate at a place called The Boardwalk which offers walk up counter service for all sorts of cuisine as well as spirits. Its sit down restaurant is called The Upper Deck, upstairs, of course. Food is great and the place is fun. It is located right in the Marina, and is the first place you see when you de-board the boat.

Once your appetite is curbed and you are still sober enough, you can visit several of the sights on the island, the most prominent of which is the Commodore Perry Memorial of the War of 1812 fame. It is hard to miss being 352 feet high, with an observation deck. The island also boasts a Lake Erie Historical Society museum, as well as a winery, caves, island tour trains, and a carrousel.

I haven’t figured out the hotel situation yet. There are several on the island. You can check the web site as to what is available. Quality assurance is not guaranteed from what I can see, but then again, who cares when you have been drinking with Mad Dog for several hours after riding the elevator to the Perry Observation Deck!

I wouldn’t recommend Put-in-Bay for everyone, and I am not sure it is a family destination. If you have been to Key West, this is the northern version. But it definitely should go on your YOLO (You Only Live Once) list of things to do.

Shiloh, Ohio

Let’s go to Shiloh, Ohio. Okay. Where is Shiloh, Ohio? What is Shiloh, Ohio? Well, you get on SR 224, and drive west for about a hundred miles and then turn left. It is 10 miles down that country road. Be careful!! The road is “dippy” and you can’t see over the hill down the road apiece. Watch out for the buggies. The Amish are everywhere. Most important, when you get there, don’t blink. It has a railroad track, but still hasn’t installed a traffic light.

Welcome to small town America, USA. Located on Route 603 in Richland County about 15 miles northwest of Mansfield, Shiloh is the quintessential American small town. I know…we like to think of small towns as places like Salem or Warren. Those aren’t small towns. Those are cities. Shiloh is the real McCoy.

The 2000 census puts its population at about 750 people. It has a main street, a railroad crossing, several churches, and a factory which is going great guns, employing several hundred people. That is down from when I first visited there. The population was 850 way back then. It has its own water and sewer system, and a consolidated school system with the bigger town about 8 miles to the west, Plymouth, Ohio, pop: 1,852; 903 males and 949 females. Plymouth has several traffic lights and a town square. Moving up to the big time.

Seriously, we read about small town America and envision it as someplace in Iowa or Nebraska. The fact of the matter is that Ohio has its fair share of Americana, and it is only a short drive away. Shiloh is farm country. But for those of us from cities like Youngstown and Cleveland with a large ethnic population, it is exotic as anything you will find overseas. My wife is from Shiloh. Believe me, my first trip there was like visiting a brave new world. It was hard to believe I was in the same state.

Some of the “big” cities around Shiloh are Plymouth, Willard, and Greenwich (pronounced Green Witch). Smaller towns also abound like Shenandoah (pronounced Shawnador…don’t ask. I can’t figure it out either!). Towns akin to Salem would be Bucyrus (home of Ohio’s largest Bratwurst Festival), and Shelby, one of the centers of Ohio’s railroad industry.

Located nearby is the “muck” outside of Celeryville. The dirt here is rich and black and wet, and lends itself to growing, you guessed it, celery, as well as any kind of root vegetable like beets, and pretty much anything else you can think of. During harvest season, it is the home for hundreds of Mexican migrant workers. Some of them have found their way to Shiloh. During the season you can see them sitting outside cooking Mexican down home cuisine on grills and outdoor portable ovens.

This is one of the unheralded Amish population centers in the state. The Amish have quietly been buying up all of the local farms, and have made their presence known with buggies everywhere, and their schools and churches scattered throughout the countryside. The Amish store located a few miles outside of town sells dry goods and produce for unbelievably inexpensive prices, and draws people from all over Richland County.

But here’s the thing. If you want to get away from it all, there is no better place. When I would visit my wife’s home located on 40 acres on top of a hill, I could look up into the night sky and see stars as they were intended to be seen. The nights would be perfectly calm and totally quiet to the point where it was eerie. And in the background, you could hear the train and its whistle chugging through the center of town several times each hour. It doesn’t get any better than that.

And here is the other thing. Shiloh has a volunteer fire department, probably the most well equipped volunteer fire department in the state. Each year, it sponsors the Shiloh Ox Roast Festival. Tons of beef in a special seasoning are cooked for hours underground in a pit located on the outskirts of town. And the beef is devoured like nothing you have ever seen before. They start selling the sandwiches on Friday afternoon, and by Saturday night they are pretty well gone. Even the passing trains stop to buy these marvelous beef sandwiches.

In addition to the food which includes homemade baked goods, fries, and roasted corn, there is an old fashioned tractor pull, bingo at the town parlor, and plenty of beer in the VFW hall located next to the tracks.

But the highlight of the Ox Roast is the parade on Saturday night. It is one of the largest in the State of Ohio with floats and bands coming from as far away as Cincinnati and Toledo. The parade will last a good 2 – 2 ½ hours, and the town’s population swells from 750 to a good 20,000. And you would swear you saw Grandpa McCoy and Little Luke sitting in the folding chair in front of my late father-in-law’s barbershop.

I am not sure I would make Shiloh a sole destination when visiting this part of the state. But get a map and do some research, and you will find all sorts of interesting places to visit with a 30 mile radius. Accomodations are few and far between, but Mansfield has the standard chain motels giving you easy access to everything that northcentral Ohio has to offer.

By the way, the Shiloh Ox Roast is the weekend of July 25. More information available at http://www.shilohfire.net/.

Route 224 to State Route 61 south to Plymouth. Route 603 southeast to Shiloh.

Ligonier, PA

When I retire, it will be to Ligonier, Pennsylvania. What a great little town!!! Ligonier is one of those places I would hear about from time to time growing up, but I had no idea where it was. Two years ago, my wife and I attempted to visit a china outlet store somewhere southeast of Pittsburgh in what is known as the Laurel Highlands. When we got there, it was closed. The town we were in was a tad dumpy, so we looked at a map and saw that Ligonier was about 20 miles away…and decided to check it out.

Ligonier is one of those places that you can’t get there from here. It is not a particularly easy drive. It is not close to any freeway or the Pennsylvania Turnpike, although that is the best way to get there (Donegal exit off of the turnpike). It is located at the intersection of Route 30 (the old Lincoln Highway) and 711 in Westmoreland County, Pa., with not too many ways in or out. It is separated from the rest of the world by 2 relatively innocuous “mountains,” down in the valley, towards where Maryland, West Virginia and Pennsylvania come together.

I suppose getting there could be deemed a pain in the neck, except that it is a spectacular drive. It is called the Laurel Highlands because it is up high. Here, the Pennsylvania mountains are more like rolling hills, and the way in and out is lined with manicured farms, some old time ski resorts (think rustic cabins in every sense of the word), clubs and golf courses accented by stunning vistas. It was fun exploring the area, taking side trips to visit what was advertised along the side of the roads.

Ligonier was originally one of a series of British forts built on the road west from Philadelphia, and played a major role in the French and Indian War, marking the site of a major French defeat at the hands of the British, allowing the Brits to march to the abandoned Fort Duquesne, renaming it Fort Pitt at the juncture of the Monongahela and Allegheny Rivers. A replica of Fort Ligonier is built in its original location, and opened to the public for tours.

The town of Ligonier is built around a “diamond” which acts as the town square. It is neat and well kept, and loaded with stores offering all sorts of goods, including several jewelry stores, gift stores, and some spectacular ladies clothing stores. Its public buildings and facilities are new, and about as clean as you could want. Within the city limits, there is a Ramada Inn that is a step above the normal Ramada experience, as well as several Bed and Breakfasts. The Ligonier Tavern is probably the most upscale of the several local restaurants. But try one of the coffee houses. This is a town where everybody knows your name, and you can listen in on some of the local gossip.

Ligonier is a functioning town, and any tourist activity seems to be secondary to its daily business. Fort Ligonier Days, an October fall festival, is the centerpiece of the town’s celebrations. Christmas offers a town light up night, complete with a Santa parade and store open houses. Think Christmas in the movie Funny Farm with Chevy Chase. People actually live like this. The Mountain Playhouse and Green Gables Restaurant, about 10 miles from Ligonier, provides some serious theater to the area, as well as rustic-chic accommodations in The Huddleston Court.

After our visit, I checked out some of the real estate thinking it would be a very expensive place to live…and the entire Laurel Highlands area seems to be relatively affordable. Maybe it’s because of its isolation, or maybe it’s because the weather can be dicey in the winter, or maybe it’s because I can get to downtown Pittsburgh for an urban experience faster from my home in Canfield than from Ligonier, or maybe it’s because time simply forgot the area. Whatever the reason, Ligonier is worth the trip for a day, or for a weekend.

Geneva on the Lake, Ohio

What better way to start the summer season this Memorial Day weekend than a trip to Geneva on the Lake. Back in the 1940’s, 50’s, and 60’s, most Ohioans made the trip up to Lake Erie’s North Coast to spend a week at Geneva on the Lake. Families would rent cottages, and spend the week brushing away the flies and bugs. Teenagers would go there for adolescent trysts, and for the rite of passage “after-prom” binge. It was, and is, a honky-tonk paradise of the old school. As we say here in Mahoning County: “We’re goin’ up the lake!”

But I didn’t discover it until a few years ago. My family was too “genteel” for the fun stuff. But a friend of mine told me he was biking up to Geneva on the Lake, and was going to meet his wife at Eddie’s to drive him home. I had heard of the place, and didn’t know the significance of Eddie’s, so I googled a map, and my wife and I drove there to surprise him. He was a “no show” as he crashed his bike outside of Canfield and broke his arm. Notwithstanding, it started an annual trek up to this "step back in time", old fashioned resort.

Located in Ashtabula County in the heart of Lake Erie wine country, there are actually two Geneva on the Lakes. There is the old fashioned resort filled with cottages, arcades, fast food and amusement rides. You can park your car at your cottage, get out the beer cooler, and forget about the rest of the world for awhile. Any kind of penny arcade game, or miniature golf, or junk souvenir stand you could want is within walking distance. The piece de resistance for food is Eddie’s Diner, a monument to the old fashioned hamburger and hot dog beach joints, blasting tunes from the 1950’s as you chow down on your “resort cuisine” and guzzle your root beer floats. Numerous donut stands to take care of any and all breakfast issues. The city park is at the end of the drag, giving good access to the beach.

Then there is the “limo and latte” Geneva on the Lake. For those yearning for a “Sideways” Sonoma Valley vacation but can’t afford the trip to California, here is an ersatz alternative. Start with the newly constructed Lodge at Geneva on the Lake, which is beautiful. Surrounded by tranquil grounds with stunning views of Lake Erie from its gorgeous restaurant facility, it is a classy way to spend a weekend getaway.

You can shun the “pedestrian” main drag during the day, by turning right out of the lodge parking lot, instead of left, and go to Geneva, Ohio, which has a myriad of antique shops to wile away the day. The hotel folks will also give you numerous brochures as to the locations of several of Ohio’s fine wineries, all within a ½ hour drive. Ferrante’s Winery is one of my favorites, with a California-esque new building that allows you to sit inside or outside to enjoy their tasting samples, as well as their great restaurant serving better than average Italian cuisine.

I will be honest, I am not a big fan of Ohio wines, but I enjoy getting to taste what we can produce in our own backyard. These are serious wineries, and Ferrante’s is known for its dessert “Ice Wine” made from pressed frozen grapes. These are a tad pricey, but a great way to end a meal.

Take the time to check out some of the other wineries that are less ambitious than Ferrante’s, but tend to be a tad more authentic in their approach to experiencing a wine tour. Several times during the year, the wineries band together and offer up joint promotions and specials on tasting both wine samples and appetizers. These are a lot of fun, but make sure you have a designated driver.

With gas at $4.00/gallon, Geneva on the Lake offers an interesting and diverse alternative for those looking to vacation close to home.

Geneva on the Lake Tourist Bureau
The Lodge at Geneva on the Lake
Ferrante’s Winery

Pittsburgh's SouthSide Works

Pittsburgh is one of my favorite cities…and one of my favorite things about my favorite city is the neighborhoods. Anyone who has attempted to get around Pittsburgh knows that the hills make it nearly impossible to get from here to there unless you know exactly where you are going. Add the rivers and bridges to the mix, even those who live there have established enclaves unto themselves, creating neighborhoods that are individual destinations. Pittsburgh’s Southside is one of those neighborhoods.

Pittsburgh’s Southside is geographically located between the Monongahela River to the north and Mount Washington and the Southside Slopes to the south. The main drag is East Carson Street in which there are three main subdivisions. Station Square is the furthest west of the various developments, located at the end of the Smithfield Street Bridge. As you drive to the east, you will encounter a gritty, eclectic neighborhood with second hand bookstores, tattoo parlours, antique stores, head shops, and restaurants to suit every taste and pocketbook, mostly local. This is a fun area, but is rapidly gentrifying as evidenced by increasing property values. Both of these, especially the two lane East Carson corridor, are worth separate trips to explore and enjoy.

At the top of the East Carson Street corridor, where two lanes turn into four, is the brand new SouthSide Works, located along the river. On its face, it resembles Legacy Village in Cleveland, much smaller, and Easton in Columbus, much bigger. Where it differs is that it was actually built into pre-existing buildings associated with a steel mill formerly located on the property. For the most part, it maintains an industrial feel, as do most of the new developments being built the further east you drive along East Carson Street.

For some reason, the developer opened the area in stages. In the beginning, there wasn’t a whole lot there. But progress has been steady, and as new buildings and stores have opened up, it is a pleasant place to walk around and enjoy, especially on a warm summer’s evening. All of these areas are defined as “mixed use”, in which the developer tries to intermingle condo housing, offices, and retail. Some of the efforts succeed, some of them don’t. But the nature of the Southside neighborhood is pushing this to success. If you want to live in the Southside but don’t want to have to put a ton of money into renovating the very old, existing housing stock, and would like to have a place to park your car, this is the place to go.

The SouthSide Works is built around a town square, the center of which boasts a Cheesecake Factory which can be described as nothing less than a Greek temple. When you walk into the square, you feel like you should pray to it. Surrounding the square are various establishments, including a Cineplex, and various other restaurants such as Claddagh Irish Pub, which is one of my favorite places. Upscale restaurants include the Hot Metal Grille (currently closed for renovations) and McCormick and Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant.

There is no major retail anchor such as Macy’s located here. But there is an assortment of smaller retailers, some of which have come to be standard in these types of developments such as the Z Gallerie and Sur la Table Kitchen Store. I really like its version of the Joseph-Beth Booksellers chain, which tends to get some big name people into the establishment to sign books, especially Pittsburgh sports figures.

Big things are in store for the SouthSide Works. Approval and financing have just been granted for a $10.5 million 17 dock project giving river access to the development, as well as a major hotel and spa to be constructed on the opposite side of East Carson Street. When built, this area will become a major hub of Pittsburgh activity and recreation. In the meantime, it’s worth a visit. There is ample parking on the street and several decks. One word of warning, parking is paid for at vending machine type apparatii that can be a bit intimidating and don't always work.

The SouthSide Works
East Carson at 27th Steets
1-877-977-1880

East Liverpool....Really??

My family traveled a lot when I was small. And my mother and father brought me to some really interesting places, including NYC, DC, LA, San Fran, the Big Easy, and Boston….great trips. But they rarely day tripped around here. That translates to we never went to Lake Erie or anything associated with it other than Camp Fitch, nor did we go to anyplace located along the Ohio River. The only time I ever saw East Liverpool was when I traveled with my high school football team to play the Potters.

Let’s face it. East Liverpool, Steubenville, Wellsville…not exactly the garden spot of the world. To be honest, sometimes that area is just plain depressing. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t places worth visiting down there, and having some fun.

A settlement was established in East Liverpool around 1800, and it was originally called St. Clair, then Fawcettstown, and finally incorporated as East Liverpool in 1834, reflecting the nostalgia for Liverpool, England, from whence most of the inhabitants came. The “East” is there to differentiate it from a Liverpool that is located in Medina County.

Those people that came there from Liverpool, England, were potters, and we all know that the heart of the American pottery industry was in East Liverpool. At one time, there were more than 300 potteries in the area. Today, there are only three: The Hall China Company, The Homer Laughlin China Company across the river in Newell, West Virginia, and the Pioneer Pottery.

If you haven’t been to either of the two big potteries listed above, it’s a great day trip. Each of the potteries has outlets that you can pick up some really neat china at great prices. These are seconds, but a little inspection will save you a lot of money. My claim to fame with Hall China is my Ronald Reagan teapot. Several hundred were originally ordered by Nancy Reagan to give as Christmas gifts, but with his nose as the tea spout, the caricature was a bit much, and she returned them all. I picked up several for 10 bucks each, gave some away as gifts and kept one. That sucker is now worth $200.00. Far out.

Homer Laughlin is the home of the famous Fiesta Dinnerware. This china producer is still humming along. Its factory outlet is primo when it comes to the variety of choices. In addition to Fiesta Ware, there is an abundance of institutional china available through the outlet, as well as second and unpaid for restaurant china from all over the United States. These always make for good conversation pieces.

And for those of you who aren’t visitors to Mountaineer Park and Casino, you get to cross the Newell Bridge, which is like stepping back in time. I make the sign of the cross every time I get to the opposite side of the river.

After spending some time at the potteries, visit the Pottery City Antique Mall in downtown East Liverpool. This is a good one, folks. It has 40,000 square feet of stuff spread out of 4 floors with over 200 vendors. I have always been intimidated by these large antique places, but the way this one is laid out, it is not overwhelming.

I like the first floor items located immediately located to the left after you walk into the place. Many items are available here that you won’t find anywhere else, that includes on line. It also has a large black memorabilia collection, one of the largest I have seen, scattered throughout the entire retail area. Give yourself at least several hours to visit the Pottery City Antique Mall.

If you are so inclined, the Ohio Historical Society operates the Museum of Ceramics in the old City Post Office building. The building itself is an impressive structure, both in and out, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In addition to numerous exhibits and displays about the history of the area and it potteries, it has the largest display of Lotus Ware in the country. Lotus Ware was made in East Liverpool and considered to be the finest porcelain ever produced in the United States. It is beautiful stuff and worth the trip to see.

Would I put East Liverpool at the top of my list of places to visit? I don’t think so. But on a dreary day, or a cold day, or even a sunny when the town doesn’t look so bad, take the 30 minute drive down Route 11, and have some fun.

PS: Also on the list to visit, although I haven't seen it personally, is the Lou Holtz Hall of Fame!!

Hometown boy makes good...Cheer, Cheer for old Notre Dame!!

HOMER LAUGHLIN CHINA COMPANY: The Homer Laughlin China Co., 672 Fiesta Drive, Newell, WV 26050 Tel: (800) 452-4462.

THE HALL CHINA COMPANY: 1 Anna Avenue; East Liverpool, Ohio 43920

THE MUSEUM OF CERAMICS: 400 East Fifth Street East Liverpool, Ohio 43920; Telephone: 330-386-6001 or 800-600-7180

POTTERY CITY ANTIQUE MALL: 409 Washington Street,East Liverpool, Ohio 43920

Tel: 330-385-6933

LOU HOLTZ HALL OF FAME: 120 East Fifth Street,East Liverpool, Ohio 43920

Tel: (330) 386-5443