WHY NOT CHOOSE YOUNGSTOWN?

I recently received an email from a reader who advised me that he was thinking of retiring to Ohio from California. He was particularly interested in small towns around Cleveland, and liked the article I wrote several months ago about Chagrin Falls. I told my wife he really ought to be looking here in Youngstown and the Mahoning Valley. I know numerous folks who have retired here, and have described the area as the nation’s best kept secret. While the press has dwelled on our industrial past and colorful mob history, today’s Mahoning Valley is a great place to live, with more to offer than cities like Columbus. As my mother-in-law says, we are never bored. So, to my reader, below is a letter I wrote to Southern Living Magazine after a derogatory comment was made about my hometown in one of its articles. Come to Youngstown. I will show you around. You will want to stay.
_____________________________


MARK G. MANGIE
Attorney at Law
945 Windham Court, Suite 3
Youngstown, Ohio 44512
Phone: 330-726-1444
Fax: 330-726-5926
E-mail: Mangielaw@AOL.com


November 1, 2007

Editor
Southern Living Magazine
2100 Lakeshore Drive
Birmingham, AL 35209

RE: Youngstown/Warren, Ohio

Dear Editor:

For some reason known only to your magazine and the author of a fishing article, your magazine described Youngstown, Ohio as a “black hole”. As a long time subscriber to your magazine and purchaser of many of your books, I think you should investigate this northern bit of paradise before passing judgment. I invite you, or any of your editors, to come here and see what this area has to offer. It is a beautiful area in which to live. Our orientation is more eastern than Midwestern. We are hardworking and self reliant. Below is a perfunctory list of this area’s highlights.

1) The Youngstown-Warren area boasts two symphony orchestras. The Youngstown Symphony Orchestra is one of the few orchestras which own its own performance hall, a spectacular former movie palace built by the Warner Brothers in honor of one of the deceased brothers. The Warner Brothers were from this area. In addition, there are numerous community choruses, including Seraphim, the Stambaugh Chorus, and the Reardon Singers. The Youngstown Opera Guild mounts a full opera production every year. The Ballet Western Reserve also offers several performances throughout the year. This past year, the Seraphim Chorus combined with Westminster College Chorus, the Stambaugh Chorus, and the Warren Symphony Orchestra for a rare and outstanding performance of the Verdi Requiem.

2) The Butler Institute of American Art is the first art museum in the United States dedicated solely to the American art. It is world renowned and loans many of its pieces of art to museums all over the world, including the popular “Crack the Whip”. Its recent million dollar purchase of Norman Rockwell’s “Lincoln, the Rail Splitter” is just one more addition to its world class collection.

3) Youngstown State University boasts 12,000 students, and has won numerous academic excellence awards for achievement in undergraduate education. The Business School holds the nation’s highest accreditations. Dana School of Music is among the oldest and most honored music schools in the country. Its Engineering School is rapidly regaining the national prominence it enjoyed in the steel mill glory days.

4) Youngstown State’s football team is continually nationally ranked in the Division 1-AA rankings, and has won numerous national championships. Its immediate past coach is now the head coach of the national champion Ohio State Buckeyes. In addition, high school football reigns supreme on Friday nights as the area has fielded numerous state championship teams from schools like Cardinal Mooney and Ursuline High Schools, who have also produced numerous college athletes and professional football coaches.

5) Legitimate and amateur theater is rampant in the area, including The Oakland Theater for the Performing Arts, The Victorian Players, TNT Theater in Trumbull County, community theaters in New Castle and Salem, as well as the professional locally based troupe, Easy Street Productions. Easy Street has the capability of presenting performances that rival anything, anywhere. Its production of Annie is better than the one I saw in New York. It is renowned for its multi-year run of Pump Boys and Dinettes.

6) Youngstown boasts three primary performance venues for the arts and other events: The recently expanded Youngstown Symphony Center with 2 auditoriums and a pavilion, the Stambaugh Auditorium, a Greek revival architectural gem; and the new Youngstown Chevrolet Center, a 5,700 seat venue and convention center. In addition, The Youngstown Playhouse and Oakland Theater maintain their own individual performance venues.

7) Mill Creek Metro Park is one of the largest metropolitan parks in the United States consisting of 2700 acres, and is the first municipal park in Ohio. It boasts three lakes, a beautiful 36 hole golf course, an 18 hole short hole golf course, a brand new nature and garden center located in Fellows Gardens, which can hold its own with any public garden in the country, and numerous recreation venues, wetlands, and wildlife preserves. In addition to miles of hiking and bike trails, Lanterman Falls Mill is a working grist mill and a centerpiece of the park.

8) Canfield, Ohio, Youngstown’s southwest suburb, was recently named one of the top 100 places to live in the United States. It hosts the Canfield Fair, which is the largest fair in Ohio. Poland, Ohio, Youngstown’s southeast suburb, the cornerstone of the Connecticut Western Reserve, is New England personified, and has been used for location shooting in various movie and television productions. Poland also is becoming a bedroom community for Pittsburgh as Allegheny County residents look for more affordable housing.

9) Youngstown’s location places it 60 miles from Pittsburgh and 60 miles from Cleveland. Those of us who live here are within an hour’s drive of 2 professional football teams, 2 professional baseball teams; a professional basketball team and a professional hockey team. It also opens up all of the cultural, dining, and retail opportunities in both cities. I live in Canfield. From my driveway to downtown Pittsburgh is 55 minutes on a bad day. We are also located 10 miles from the Western Pennsylvania rural Amish country in Mercer and Lawrence Counties, making for many beautiful, sunny fall afternoon excursions. Although Youngstown has its own regional airport, most service is offered either through Canton/Akron, 45 miles to the west, or through Pittsburgh International, 45 miles to the south. There is easy access to both.

10) Our cost of living is among the lowest in the nation. Come here and see what kind of a house your money can buy.

11) While our weather tends to be on the damp side, our location puts us too far south for the lake-effect snows, and too far north for the southern storms. Our location is just south of the snow-belt off of Lake Erie. Chagrin Falls?? Right in the center of the snow-belt. We are the garden spot of Ohio.

12) Numerous golf magazines continually rank us as one of the top areas in the United States for the number and quality of golf courses, both public and private. All of these are top notch, with reasonable greens fees. In addition, both Youngstown Country Club and Tippecanoe Country Club offer outstanding private courses and facilities.

13) Our rich ethnic heritage makes this a center for a diversity of cultures, food, and festivals, including Italian, Greek, Jewish, German, Russian, Eastern European, African American and growing Hispanic community.

14) There are many architectural treasures located here. The configuration of the Central Square has been nationally recognized. The Metropolitan Tower is a recognized art deco masterpiece, along with other art deco buildings such as the WFMJ building, the Youngstown Police Department, and the Youngstown Vindicator building. The County Courthouse has been recently renovated and is recognized as the finest in the state with massive murals depicting the history of the county throughout the entire building. Multi styled churches grace the entire area from the gothic St. Patrick’s Church to the strikingly modern St. Columba’s Cathedral, and everything in-between from Onion Domed Orthodox Churches to the St. James Meeting House, the first Episcopal church west of the Allegheny Mountains.

15) Last, but not least, no matter what happens in the United States, there is ALWAYS a Youngstown connection. From professional athletes, to major university football coaches, to actors, to politicians, to businessmen, to musicians and health care, those that hail from the Mahoning Valley are quick to rise to the top of their chosen professions. This is due to the large talent pool, perseverance, hard work and dedication of those who our former Congressman called “junk yard dogs.” Above all, we are survivors.

Escape the southern heat and humidity this summer and come and visit us. Bring your golf clubs, and your passion for the arts and history. It will be the most interesting black hole you will ever visit.

Thank you for your consideration.

Very truly yours,

Mark G. Mangie

A Fall Drive

I don’t think there is anyplace prettier in the United States than northeast Ohio in the fall. I have traveled many places, and I am always happy to come home and enjoy some of our spectacular scenery any time of the year, but autumn is always something special. I find four areas particularly stunning.

The first is the drive southeast of Youngstown in Columbiana County off of Route 11 along State Route 154 west toward Lisbon and then on to Hanoverton on Route 30. The ride down Route 11 itself has stunning vistas of color as you drive into the hills up from the Ohio River. When you get to Hanoverton, stop and have lunch or dinner at the Spread Eagle Tavern. It is a terrific restaurant, and one of the bastions of Republicanism in the Ohio, hosting just about every major Republican presidential candidate in recent history. Going the other way off of Route 11, drive east on 154 through Elkton and past Route 7, Beaver State Park is about as pretty a place in the fall as you will find anywhere. This trip is worth the gas.

If you want to drive west/northwest, take Route 303 through Hudson and on to Peninsula, Ohio, and the Cuyahoga Valley National Park. It is a breathtaking ride in the fall. This gem of a park is not well known to those of us from Youngstown, and is also worth the gas. Peninsula is in the northern part of the park, and tends to be extremely crowded in the fall, so it isn’t particularly “getting away from it all”. There are hikers and bikers and drivers galore, as well as a few specialty shops. Numerous roads run through the park, however, and are much less congested. It is worth the time to do some exploring. Get a map!!!!!!!

The drive my wife and I took last Saturday was north along Chagrin River Road off of Chagrin Boulevard, aka the Chagrin Valley Parkway, between Chagrin Falls and Woodmere. The road goes both directions off of Chagrin Boulevard, but we like to drive north to Gates Mills. This is one of the most spectacular drives around. It starts in Moreland Hills, then into Hunting Valley (yes, that is the name of the village) and on into and past Gates Mills. This is horse farm country, complete with the Cleveland Metro Parks Polo Grounds along the way. It is lightly traveled by cars, and goes along the Chagrin River with magnificent homes back off of the road. Chagrin River Road is the end point for Shaker Boulevard, Cedar Road and other major Cleveland streets. At Gates Mills, at the Chagrin Valley Hunt Club no less, it turns into State Route 174 up to the North Chagrin Reservation and Chardon Road. This is how the other half lives. This is northeast Ohio at its best.

For those who don’t want to drive to take a “drive”, our own Mill Creek Park is just about as good as it gets. Too many of us take the park for granted, and many of us don’t know our way around the park roads. There is a surprise at every turn. Drive past all three lakes. Visit The Old Mill museum, and end up at Fellows Gardens. The park is close. It’s free. And magnificent in the fall, as well as any other time of the year.

Happy foliage watching.

Granville, Ohio: The Jewel of Licking County

In the center of Licking County, just east of Columbus, you will find Granville. This is just a really pretty little town , which also is the home of Denison University. Founded in 1805, it was originally settled by folks from Granville, Ma., looking to move west. Current population is around 3200 people.

It is not a particularly easy place to get to. It is about 15 miles north of I 70. There are numerous state routes out of Columbus to the west and Newark to the east to get you here, but it is not exactly along the beaten path. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful drive through some of Ohio’s prettiest farmland. The village itself is situated midst the rolling hills at the beginning of the Appalachian range.

I will be honest. If you are looking for splashy and excitement, this isn’t the place to go. The stores are OK, but not great. Many of them are closed reflecting the general economy. It has several sidewalk cafes and restaurants, all of which are worth a close look. There are several museums along the street highlighting the history of Granville and Licking County. The library looks like it was taken right off an MGM sound stage. The entire town and surrounding countryside are picturesque in the extreme, and the people are so friendly, and there are so many trees. It is a great place to park your car and just walk around and enjoy its outstanding atmosphere. Scenery is its strong suit. It is gorgeous in the summer, and must be simply breathtaking in the fall. Is that Jimmy Stewart walking down the sidewalk??

On Saturday, there is a farmers market in the center of town with plenty of street parking. The central intersection is 4 cornered with gorgeous churches. The sidewalks are wide, which accommodate the strollers as well as the local runners and bicyclists. It is an extremely affluent community with lots of expensive real estate, and it shows. This is upper middle class small town America.

Two inns are on opposite sides of the street. The Buxton Inn is a series of connected, fully restored houses. Great common areas with individually decorated rooms are the centerpiece of this beautiful facility.

Across the street is the more famous Granville Inn. Built in the style of an English Tudor Manor complete with arches and attendant views, it offers 30 rooms along with a consistently good, award winning restaurant which draws folks from all over the state. It is listed on the National Register of Historic places. It is stunning.

There are also several B & B’s located in Granville. One is nicer than the next. If you are into this type of atmosphere, spend some time and research. It will be worth the effort.

If you are going to stay for the weekend, play 18 holes at the award winning Longaberger Golf Course, one of the top ranked public courses in the United States. Designed by Arthur Hills, one of the top golf course architects around, you will find it hard to believe you are on a public course. Another choice is The Granville Golf Course, right in Granville, a 1924 classic designed by Donald Ross. It plays along the gentle hills and is filled with stunning vistas and views. It ranks 4 stars from Golfer’s Digest.

Denison University is a liberal arts school devoted entirely to undergraduate education. It is an elite school, and has a history of associations with major United States icons such as the Rockefeller family. It is the quintessential liberal arts college campus, and is worth an hour of time to stroll around its manicured landscape, and enjoy the views from the top of the hills. Gorgeous. Gorgeous. Gorgeous.

And so is Granville. Spend a day or weekend. You will leave refreshed and rested.

Stan Hywet Hall and Gardens, Akron

On the one hand, you can get in your car and drive to Toronto to visit Casa Loma spending all that money for gas. When you cross into Canada, those used to that great currency exchange rate will be sorely disappointed to find that right now it is about equal, 1 dollar for 1 loony. On the other hand, you can visit Stan Hywet Hall and Gardens in Akron, and see a spectacular piece of Americana that not a whole lot of people from the Youngstown area know about.

Stan Hywet was the country estate of Franklin Augustus Seiberling, the founder of Goodyear Tire in Akron. Built in 1912 at the height of the American industrial explosion, it is representative of that golden and gilded era when country estates for American industrialists were making the scene. Is that the Great Gatsby walking in the distance? Akron was becoming the rubber capital of America, and this was the fitting palace for its industrial patron. It is fabulous.

Stan Hywet is a 65 room mansion sitting on 70 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds and gardens, pared down from its original 1000 acres. It is intimidating and inviting all at the same time. And what is most remarkable is that it was an actual home until 1955 when F.A. Seiberling died at the age of 95. People actually lived like this. It served as host for a who’s who of American politicians, industrialists, and celebrities, as well as a home for the Seiberling family. Its history is filled with parties and family gatherings, and it is still hosting people today.

In 1957 the Seiberling family donated the house to a non-profit preservation society who has lovingly restored, preserved and enhanced this marvelous piece of architecture and American history. Today, the mansion house is open for tours, and be prepared to be wowed with its stunning architecture, 23 overwhelming fireplaces, 21000 panels of glass, and woodwork, furnishings and objects imported from around the world. Everything that has been restored has been done in period fabrics and style. It has to be seen to be believed.

Outside, the gardens are designed so something is blooming all of time. There is a Japanese Garden, and English Garden, a wild flowers meadow…one is more stunning than the next. Not only will you walk in these meticulously designed gardens by renowned American landscape architect Warren Manning, take a look around at the stunning views of the valleys surrounding the grounds. These folks knew how to live.

Stan Hywet runs numerous events throughout the year from concerts to plays to antique car shows to quilt shows to an outstanding Ohio mart that covers the grounds with craftsmen from all over the country. Plan on spending some time at the mart. It is a huge show. At Christmas, the place is decorated to the nines with all sorts of seasonal activities scheduled throughout November and December. Check the website for special events for whatever time of the year.

If you still have some time after your visit to this wonderful place, you may want to take some time to drive through the nearby Cuyahoga Valley National Park, especially in the fall. It is a magnificent ride that will take you through Peninsula, Ohio. Folks, New England has nothing over this part of the great State of Ohio. It is amazing what is so close to home.

Stan Hywet Hall and Gardens
714 N. Portage Path
Akron, OH
330 836-5533

Put-in-Bay, Ohio

Last summer, some old law school buddies called me and asked if my wife and I would like to get together for a mini-reunion. Sounded like fun to me. Both of these guys owned condos in Port Clinton, Ohio, and suggested we drive there and visit Put-in-Bay. I had never been there, and my wife had always wanted to visit one of the Lake Erie islands…so off we went. It is a little bit west of Cedar Point, so allow at least 3 hours for driving time.

So you like to party? Folks, this is the place. Just a short jet express boat ride from Port Clinton, and it is time to Paar-tay!!!!

What a great place. I’m not sure how to describe it. We were only there for 4 hours; but one thing for sure, you can drink, and drink a lot, and the only thing you have to be concerned about is falling into Lake Erie. We got there around 1:00 in the afternoon, and the booze was flowing, the people were singing, and…well, it was a bit much to take in. If you are looking for classy summer resort stuff, this ain’t it. This is get down and boogie heaven.

I am not sure how the island handles the excessive alcohol imbibing. You can ferry your car there with proper reservations, but for the most part you get around riding bikes or driving golf carts. The marina is huge, and at first blush, it would appear that the drinking would be more of a boating issue as opposed to a driving issue. Folks were plastered, on the boats, off the boats, and everywhere in between.

The center of the action is a place called the Roundhouse Bar. True to its name, it is round. No little kidders allowed. This is a party place. Open from noon until 2:30 AM, the entertainment is non stop. When we were there, it was provided by Mike “Mad Dog” Adams, and the name is appropriate to the provided entertainment. The guy was hysterical, and XXX rated. This guy is on the road 200 days a year, and hits all of the major party spots in Canada and the United States. He is THE headliner for the summer on Put-in Bay. CD’s are available in the lobby.

The jet boat to Put-in-Bay drops you off at the entrance to the town square. It is definitely picturesque to say the least, with a park and picnic tables being the center that the businesses are built around. There is some shopping, but mostly touristy stuff and resort wear…lots of gift shops. Great fudge and ice cream.

There are plenty of places to chow down. I didn’t see any white table cloth places, but mucho aquatic themed restaurants serving Lake Erie perch sandwiches, among other delicacies. We ate at a place called The Boardwalk which offers walk up counter service for all sorts of cuisine as well as spirits. Its sit down restaurant is called The Upper Deck, upstairs, of course. Food is great and the place is fun. It is located right in the Marina, and is the first place you see when you de-board the boat.

Once your appetite is curbed and you are still sober enough, you can visit several of the sights on the island, the most prominent of which is the Commodore Perry Memorial of the War of 1812 fame. It is hard to miss being 352 feet high, with an observation deck. The island also boasts a Lake Erie Historical Society museum, as well as a winery, caves, island tour trains, and a carrousel.

I haven’t figured out the hotel situation yet. There are several on the island. You can check the web site as to what is available. Quality assurance is not guaranteed from what I can see, but then again, who cares when you have been drinking with Mad Dog for several hours after riding the elevator to the Perry Observation Deck!

I wouldn’t recommend Put-in-Bay for everyone, and I am not sure it is a family destination. If you have been to Key West, this is the northern version. But it definitely should go on your YOLO (You Only Live Once) list of things to do.

Shiloh, Ohio

Let’s go to Shiloh, Ohio. Okay. Where is Shiloh, Ohio? What is Shiloh, Ohio? Well, you get on SR 224, and drive west for about a hundred miles and then turn left. It is 10 miles down that country road. Be careful!! The road is “dippy” and you can’t see over the hill down the road apiece. Watch out for the buggies. The Amish are everywhere. Most important, when you get there, don’t blink. It has a railroad track, but still hasn’t installed a traffic light.

Welcome to small town America, USA. Located on Route 603 in Richland County about 15 miles northwest of Mansfield, Shiloh is the quintessential American small town. I know…we like to think of small towns as places like Salem or Warren. Those aren’t small towns. Those are cities. Shiloh is the real McCoy.

The 2000 census puts its population at about 750 people. It has a main street, a railroad crossing, several churches, and a factory which is going great guns, employing several hundred people. That is down from when I first visited there. The population was 850 way back then. It has its own water and sewer system, and a consolidated school system with the bigger town about 8 miles to the west, Plymouth, Ohio, pop: 1,852; 903 males and 949 females. Plymouth has several traffic lights and a town square. Moving up to the big time.

Seriously, we read about small town America and envision it as someplace in Iowa or Nebraska. The fact of the matter is that Ohio has its fair share of Americana, and it is only a short drive away. Shiloh is farm country. But for those of us from cities like Youngstown and Cleveland with a large ethnic population, it is exotic as anything you will find overseas. My wife is from Shiloh. Believe me, my first trip there was like visiting a brave new world. It was hard to believe I was in the same state.

Some of the “big” cities around Shiloh are Plymouth, Willard, and Greenwich (pronounced Green Witch). Smaller towns also abound like Shenandoah (pronounced Shawnador…don’t ask. I can’t figure it out either!). Towns akin to Salem would be Bucyrus (home of Ohio’s largest Bratwurst Festival), and Shelby, one of the centers of Ohio’s railroad industry.

Located nearby is the “muck” outside of Celeryville. The dirt here is rich and black and wet, and lends itself to growing, you guessed it, celery, as well as any kind of root vegetable like beets, and pretty much anything else you can think of. During harvest season, it is the home for hundreds of Mexican migrant workers. Some of them have found their way to Shiloh. During the season you can see them sitting outside cooking Mexican down home cuisine on grills and outdoor portable ovens.

This is one of the unheralded Amish population centers in the state. The Amish have quietly been buying up all of the local farms, and have made their presence known with buggies everywhere, and their schools and churches scattered throughout the countryside. The Amish store located a few miles outside of town sells dry goods and produce for unbelievably inexpensive prices, and draws people from all over Richland County.

But here’s the thing. If you want to get away from it all, there is no better place. When I would visit my wife’s home located on 40 acres on top of a hill, I could look up into the night sky and see stars as they were intended to be seen. The nights would be perfectly calm and totally quiet to the point where it was eerie. And in the background, you could hear the train and its whistle chugging through the center of town several times each hour. It doesn’t get any better than that.

And here is the other thing. Shiloh has a volunteer fire department, probably the most well equipped volunteer fire department in the state. Each year, it sponsors the Shiloh Ox Roast Festival. Tons of beef in a special seasoning are cooked for hours underground in a pit located on the outskirts of town. And the beef is devoured like nothing you have ever seen before. They start selling the sandwiches on Friday afternoon, and by Saturday night they are pretty well gone. Even the passing trains stop to buy these marvelous beef sandwiches.

In addition to the food which includes homemade baked goods, fries, and roasted corn, there is an old fashioned tractor pull, bingo at the town parlor, and plenty of beer in the VFW hall located next to the tracks.

But the highlight of the Ox Roast is the parade on Saturday night. It is one of the largest in the State of Ohio with floats and bands coming from as far away as Cincinnati and Toledo. The parade will last a good 2 – 2 ½ hours, and the town’s population swells from 750 to a good 20,000. And you would swear you saw Grandpa McCoy and Little Luke sitting in the folding chair in front of my late father-in-law’s barbershop.

I am not sure I would make Shiloh a sole destination when visiting this part of the state. But get a map and do some research, and you will find all sorts of interesting places to visit with a 30 mile radius. Accomodations are few and far between, but Mansfield has the standard chain motels giving you easy access to everything that northcentral Ohio has to offer.

By the way, the Shiloh Ox Roast is the weekend of July 25. More information available at http://www.shilohfire.net/.

Route 224 to State Route 61 south to Plymouth. Route 603 southeast to Shiloh.

Ligonier, PA

When I retire, it will be to Ligonier, Pennsylvania. What a great little town!!! Ligonier is one of those places I would hear about from time to time growing up, but I had no idea where it was. Two years ago, my wife and I attempted to visit a china outlet store somewhere southeast of Pittsburgh in what is known as the Laurel Highlands. When we got there, it was closed. The town we were in was a tad dumpy, so we looked at a map and saw that Ligonier was about 20 miles away…and decided to check it out.

Ligonier is one of those places that you can’t get there from here. It is not a particularly easy drive. It is not close to any freeway or the Pennsylvania Turnpike, although that is the best way to get there (Donegal exit off of the turnpike). It is located at the intersection of Route 30 (the old Lincoln Highway) and 711 in Westmoreland County, Pa., with not too many ways in or out. It is separated from the rest of the world by 2 relatively innocuous “mountains,” down in the valley, towards where Maryland, West Virginia and Pennsylvania come together.

I suppose getting there could be deemed a pain in the neck, except that it is a spectacular drive. It is called the Laurel Highlands because it is up high. Here, the Pennsylvania mountains are more like rolling hills, and the way in and out is lined with manicured farms, some old time ski resorts (think rustic cabins in every sense of the word), clubs and golf courses accented by stunning vistas. It was fun exploring the area, taking side trips to visit what was advertised along the side of the roads.

Ligonier was originally one of a series of British forts built on the road west from Philadelphia, and played a major role in the French and Indian War, marking the site of a major French defeat at the hands of the British, allowing the Brits to march to the abandoned Fort Duquesne, renaming it Fort Pitt at the juncture of the Monongahela and Allegheny Rivers. A replica of Fort Ligonier is built in its original location, and opened to the public for tours.

The town of Ligonier is built around a “diamond” which acts as the town square. It is neat and well kept, and loaded with stores offering all sorts of goods, including several jewelry stores, gift stores, and some spectacular ladies clothing stores. Its public buildings and facilities are new, and about as clean as you could want. Within the city limits, there is a Ramada Inn that is a step above the normal Ramada experience, as well as several Bed and Breakfasts. The Ligonier Tavern is probably the most upscale of the several local restaurants. But try one of the coffee houses. This is a town where everybody knows your name, and you can listen in on some of the local gossip.

Ligonier is a functioning town, and any tourist activity seems to be secondary to its daily business. Fort Ligonier Days, an October fall festival, is the centerpiece of the town’s celebrations. Christmas offers a town light up night, complete with a Santa parade and store open houses. Think Christmas in the movie Funny Farm with Chevy Chase. People actually live like this. The Mountain Playhouse and Green Gables Restaurant, about 10 miles from Ligonier, provides some serious theater to the area, as well as rustic-chic accommodations in The Huddleston Court.

After our visit, I checked out some of the real estate thinking it would be a very expensive place to live…and the entire Laurel Highlands area seems to be relatively affordable. Maybe it’s because of its isolation, or maybe it’s because the weather can be dicey in the winter, or maybe it’s because I can get to downtown Pittsburgh for an urban experience faster from my home in Canfield than from Ligonier, or maybe it’s because time simply forgot the area. Whatever the reason, Ligonier is worth the trip for a day, or for a weekend.

Geneva on the Lake, Ohio

What better way to start the summer season this Memorial Day weekend than a trip to Geneva on the Lake. Back in the 1940’s, 50’s, and 60’s, most Ohioans made the trip up to Lake Erie’s North Coast to spend a week at Geneva on the Lake. Families would rent cottages, and spend the week brushing away the flies and bugs. Teenagers would go there for adolescent trysts, and for the rite of passage “after-prom” binge. It was, and is, a honky-tonk paradise of the old school. As we say here in Mahoning County: “We’re goin’ up the lake!”

But I didn’t discover it until a few years ago. My family was too “genteel” for the fun stuff. But a friend of mine told me he was biking up to Geneva on the Lake, and was going to meet his wife at Eddie’s to drive him home. I had heard of the place, and didn’t know the significance of Eddie’s, so I googled a map, and my wife and I drove there to surprise him. He was a “no show” as he crashed his bike outside of Canfield and broke his arm. Notwithstanding, it started an annual trek up to this "step back in time", old fashioned resort.

Located in Ashtabula County in the heart of Lake Erie wine country, there are actually two Geneva on the Lakes. There is the old fashioned resort filled with cottages, arcades, fast food and amusement rides. You can park your car at your cottage, get out the beer cooler, and forget about the rest of the world for awhile. Any kind of penny arcade game, or miniature golf, or junk souvenir stand you could want is within walking distance. The piece de resistance for food is Eddie’s Diner, a monument to the old fashioned hamburger and hot dog beach joints, blasting tunes from the 1950’s as you chow down on your “resort cuisine” and guzzle your root beer floats. Numerous donut stands to take care of any and all breakfast issues. The city park is at the end of the drag, giving good access to the beach.

Then there is the “limo and latte” Geneva on the Lake. For those yearning for a “Sideways” Sonoma Valley vacation but can’t afford the trip to California, here is an ersatz alternative. Start with the newly constructed Lodge at Geneva on the Lake, which is beautiful. Surrounded by tranquil grounds with stunning views of Lake Erie from its gorgeous restaurant facility, it is a classy way to spend a weekend getaway.

You can shun the “pedestrian” main drag during the day, by turning right out of the lodge parking lot, instead of left, and go to Geneva, Ohio, which has a myriad of antique shops to wile away the day. The hotel folks will also give you numerous brochures as to the locations of several of Ohio’s fine wineries, all within a ½ hour drive. Ferrante’s Winery is one of my favorites, with a California-esque new building that allows you to sit inside or outside to enjoy their tasting samples, as well as their great restaurant serving better than average Italian cuisine.

I will be honest, I am not a big fan of Ohio wines, but I enjoy getting to taste what we can produce in our own backyard. These are serious wineries, and Ferrante’s is known for its dessert “Ice Wine” made from pressed frozen grapes. These are a tad pricey, but a great way to end a meal.

Take the time to check out some of the other wineries that are less ambitious than Ferrante’s, but tend to be a tad more authentic in their approach to experiencing a wine tour. Several times during the year, the wineries band together and offer up joint promotions and specials on tasting both wine samples and appetizers. These are a lot of fun, but make sure you have a designated driver.

With gas at $4.00/gallon, Geneva on the Lake offers an interesting and diverse alternative for those looking to vacation close to home.

Geneva on the Lake Tourist Bureau
The Lodge at Geneva on the Lake
Ferrante’s Winery

Pittsburgh's SouthSide Works

Pittsburgh is one of my favorite cities…and one of my favorite things about my favorite city is the neighborhoods. Anyone who has attempted to get around Pittsburgh knows that the hills make it nearly impossible to get from here to there unless you know exactly where you are going. Add the rivers and bridges to the mix, even those who live there have established enclaves unto themselves, creating neighborhoods that are individual destinations. Pittsburgh’s Southside is one of those neighborhoods.

Pittsburgh’s Southside is geographically located between the Monongahela River to the north and Mount Washington and the Southside Slopes to the south. The main drag is East Carson Street in which there are three main subdivisions. Station Square is the furthest west of the various developments, located at the end of the Smithfield Street Bridge. As you drive to the east, you will encounter a gritty, eclectic neighborhood with second hand bookstores, tattoo parlours, antique stores, head shops, and restaurants to suit every taste and pocketbook, mostly local. This is a fun area, but is rapidly gentrifying as evidenced by increasing property values. Both of these, especially the two lane East Carson corridor, are worth separate trips to explore and enjoy.

At the top of the East Carson Street corridor, where two lanes turn into four, is the brand new SouthSide Works, located along the river. On its face, it resembles Legacy Village in Cleveland, much smaller, and Easton in Columbus, much bigger. Where it differs is that it was actually built into pre-existing buildings associated with a steel mill formerly located on the property. For the most part, it maintains an industrial feel, as do most of the new developments being built the further east you drive along East Carson Street.

For some reason, the developer opened the area in stages. In the beginning, there wasn’t a whole lot there. But progress has been steady, and as new buildings and stores have opened up, it is a pleasant place to walk around and enjoy, especially on a warm summer’s evening. All of these areas are defined as “mixed use”, in which the developer tries to intermingle condo housing, offices, and retail. Some of the efforts succeed, some of them don’t. But the nature of the Southside neighborhood is pushing this to success. If you want to live in the Southside but don’t want to have to put a ton of money into renovating the very old, existing housing stock, and would like to have a place to park your car, this is the place to go.

The SouthSide Works is built around a town square, the center of which boasts a Cheesecake Factory which can be described as nothing less than a Greek temple. When you walk into the square, you feel like you should pray to it. Surrounding the square are various establishments, including a Cineplex, and various other restaurants such as Claddagh Irish Pub, which is one of my favorite places. Upscale restaurants include the Hot Metal Grille (currently closed for renovations) and McCormick and Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant.

There is no major retail anchor such as Macy’s located here. But there is an assortment of smaller retailers, some of which have come to be standard in these types of developments such as the Z Gallerie and Sur la Table Kitchen Store. I really like its version of the Joseph-Beth Booksellers chain, which tends to get some big name people into the establishment to sign books, especially Pittsburgh sports figures.

Big things are in store for the SouthSide Works. Approval and financing have just been granted for a $10.5 million 17 dock project giving river access to the development, as well as a major hotel and spa to be constructed on the opposite side of East Carson Street. When built, this area will become a major hub of Pittsburgh activity and recreation. In the meantime, it’s worth a visit. There is ample parking on the street and several decks. One word of warning, parking is paid for at vending machine type apparatii that can be a bit intimidating and don't always work.

The SouthSide Works
East Carson at 27th Steets
1-877-977-1880

East Liverpool....Really??

My family traveled a lot when I was small. And my mother and father brought me to some really interesting places, including NYC, DC, LA, San Fran, the Big Easy, and Boston….great trips. But they rarely day tripped around here. That translates to we never went to Lake Erie or anything associated with it other than Camp Fitch, nor did we go to anyplace located along the Ohio River. The only time I ever saw East Liverpool was when I traveled with my high school football team to play the Potters.

Let’s face it. East Liverpool, Steubenville, Wellsville…not exactly the garden spot of the world. To be honest, sometimes that area is just plain depressing. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t places worth visiting down there, and having some fun.

A settlement was established in East Liverpool around 1800, and it was originally called St. Clair, then Fawcettstown, and finally incorporated as East Liverpool in 1834, reflecting the nostalgia for Liverpool, England, from whence most of the inhabitants came. The “East” is there to differentiate it from a Liverpool that is located in Medina County.

Those people that came there from Liverpool, England, were potters, and we all know that the heart of the American pottery industry was in East Liverpool. At one time, there were more than 300 potteries in the area. Today, there are only three: The Hall China Company, The Homer Laughlin China Company across the river in Newell, West Virginia, and the Pioneer Pottery.

If you haven’t been to either of the two big potteries listed above, it’s a great day trip. Each of the potteries has outlets that you can pick up some really neat china at great prices. These are seconds, but a little inspection will save you a lot of money. My claim to fame with Hall China is my Ronald Reagan teapot. Several hundred were originally ordered by Nancy Reagan to give as Christmas gifts, but with his nose as the tea spout, the caricature was a bit much, and she returned them all. I picked up several for 10 bucks each, gave some away as gifts and kept one. That sucker is now worth $200.00. Far out.

Homer Laughlin is the home of the famous Fiesta Dinnerware. This china producer is still humming along. Its factory outlet is primo when it comes to the variety of choices. In addition to Fiesta Ware, there is an abundance of institutional china available through the outlet, as well as second and unpaid for restaurant china from all over the United States. These always make for good conversation pieces.

And for those of you who aren’t visitors to Mountaineer Park and Casino, you get to cross the Newell Bridge, which is like stepping back in time. I make the sign of the cross every time I get to the opposite side of the river.

After spending some time at the potteries, visit the Pottery City Antique Mall in downtown East Liverpool. This is a good one, folks. It has 40,000 square feet of stuff spread out of 4 floors with over 200 vendors. I have always been intimidated by these large antique places, but the way this one is laid out, it is not overwhelming.

I like the first floor items located immediately located to the left after you walk into the place. Many items are available here that you won’t find anywhere else, that includes on line. It also has a large black memorabilia collection, one of the largest I have seen, scattered throughout the entire retail area. Give yourself at least several hours to visit the Pottery City Antique Mall.

If you are so inclined, the Ohio Historical Society operates the Museum of Ceramics in the old City Post Office building. The building itself is an impressive structure, both in and out, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In addition to numerous exhibits and displays about the history of the area and it potteries, it has the largest display of Lotus Ware in the country. Lotus Ware was made in East Liverpool and considered to be the finest porcelain ever produced in the United States. It is beautiful stuff and worth the trip to see.

Would I put East Liverpool at the top of my list of places to visit? I don’t think so. But on a dreary day, or a cold day, or even a sunny when the town doesn’t look so bad, take the 30 minute drive down Route 11, and have some fun.

PS: Also on the list to visit, although I haven't seen it personally, is the Lou Holtz Hall of Fame!!

Hometown boy makes good...Cheer, Cheer for old Notre Dame!!

HOMER LAUGHLIN CHINA COMPANY: The Homer Laughlin China Co., 672 Fiesta Drive, Newell, WV 26050 Tel: (800) 452-4462.

THE HALL CHINA COMPANY: 1 Anna Avenue; East Liverpool, Ohio 43920

THE MUSEUM OF CERAMICS: 400 East Fifth Street East Liverpool, Ohio 43920; Telephone: 330-386-6001 or 800-600-7180

POTTERY CITY ANTIQUE MALL: 409 Washington Street,East Liverpool, Ohio 43920

Tel: 330-385-6933

LOU HOLTZ HALL OF FAME: 120 East Fifth Street,East Liverpool, Ohio 43920

Tel: (330) 386-5443

THE MALTZ MUSEUM OF JEWISH HERITAGE; Beachwood, Ohio

If you would like a day trip that transports you both in time and space, try The Maltz Museum of Jewish Heritage in Beachwood, Ohio. I have driven past this place a thousand times on my way to the Beachwood Mall and Legacy Village. Located on Richmond Road midway between Chagrin Blvd. and Cedar Road, it is easy to miss as it is built down into a ridge. But the “wow” factor hits you when you turn into the driveway. It is quite a complex.

Here is a place I would never have thought to visit. Although the neighborhood I grew up in was ethnically mixed, with the vast majority of my neighbors being either Jewish, Greek or Irish, mostly Jewish, my sense was that the Maltz was just another boring, local museum. Last summer, there was some publicity in the local paper that The Maltz Museum was a hosting a traveling exhibit featuring pieces of the Dead Sea Scrolls. Not knowing when I would get another opportunity to see segments of the Dead Sea Scrolls, my wife and I and some friends drove to Cleveland to see the exhibit.

The Maltz Museum was opened in 2005. It is a beautiful and impressive 24,000 sq. ft. facility, certainly a worthy center for preserving Jewish history and archiving the Jewish contribution to Northeast Ohio. It is the progeny of Milton Maltz, a media mogul whose home was Cleveland, and now is operated through a consortium consisting of The Maltz Family Foundation, The Temple–Tifereth Israel, The Jewish Community Federation of Cleveland, and the Western Reserve Historical Society.

It was clear from the minute one enters the building that this is a world class museum. While the Dead Sea Scrolls Exhibit was interesting, it is the museum’s 2 major permanent exhibits, the American Story and the Temple-Tifereth Israel Gallery, that knock your socks off.

The American Story chronicles the migration of the Jews to Northeast Ohio. It is the quintessential immigrant story told in pictures, artifacts, and multi-media interactive displays. Whether you are Jewish, or of Italian extraction like me, or any other immigrant group, the story hits home as you wander through the twists and turns of the exhibit’s labyrinth pathways. It doesn’t tell the Jewish story. It tells the American story. Towards the end of the exhibit there is a section dedicated to World War II, and a Holocaust exhibit that hits just the right balance.

The Temple-Tifereth Israel Exhibit is a stunning collection of Jewish artifacts. These are not only impressive for their historical value, but as items of art and beauty. The Exhibit is filled with tapestries, ritual silver and pottery and china, scrolls, paintings and statuary, the most exquisite Jewish art from all over the world. It will leave you awe struck.

Our mistake was not allowing ourselves sufficient time to appreciate all that this museum has to offer. If you visit, allow yourself at least 4 hours to do any kind of justice to these exhibits.

Located in the heart of Beachwood, there are plenty of restaurants to visit…but to keep the Jewish theme intact, try Corky and Lenny’s just east of the freeway on Chagrin Boulevard.

The Maltz Museum is located at 2929 Richmond Road @ Shaker Boulevard; Beachwood, Ohio. Telephone: 216-593-0575. The museum is opened 11–5 on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday. It is opened Wednesday 11-9; Saturday 12-5. Closed on Monday. There is an admission fee between $7.00-$12.00 based on the nature of the special exhibits. Worth every penny!!

University of Pittsburgh: Back to School In Style

In the Youngstown area, one is either a Pittsburgh person or a Cleveland person. I am a Pittsburgh person. My father attended graduate school at the University of Pittsburgh. He would catch the 6:00 AM train out of the B&O Station in downtown Youngstown to the B&O Station in downtown Pittsburgh (now Station Square), then take the trolley to the University.

The biggest complaint about Pittsburgh from us Youngstowners is that it is hard to get around. Traffic patterns are a bit strange. But because he went to school there, my father knew his way around, and in turn, showed us. We took many train trips with him into “the city”. It is a great place, and filled with all sorts of day trip things to do.

One of my favorite places to visit is the University of Pittsburgh. Located in the Oakland neighborhood of Pittsburgh, the entire university area is “educational gothic” personified: think Jones Hall from YSU, only on steroids. It is like stepping back into another era. Yes, there are modern buildings all over the campus, but the two dominant structures, the Cathedral of Learning and Heinz Chapel, transport you right back to the big steel era and the robber barons. Is that Andrew Carnegie’s ghost walking around the corner?

The University itself is one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in the United States. It was founded in 1787. It is now a state supported institution with approximately 28,000 undergraduate and graduate students. In addition to its liberal arts college, it has a law school, medical school, dental school, and nursing school, all of which are topped ranked. The University of Pittsburgh Medical Center is one of the topped ranked research facilities in the United States. Most notably, it is where the polio vaccine was developed. The Katz Business School is ranked as most bang for the buck by rating agencies, which is important in business. Of personal interest to me is its ranking as one of the main centers for the study of Eastern European languages, culture and history.

It is a member of the Big East Conference. (Remember last fall when it stunned West Virginia?) The Pitt Panthers lay claim to 9 NCAA National Championships, and have a roster of alumni and coaches that would take up the rest of this article. My father used to take me to the old Pitt Stadium to see Notre Dame when the Irish came to town. In 2001 the University moved to the new Steeler stadium downtown. It's just not the same without that long walk up the hill to see the big game.

What makes Pitt worth a visit is its architecture. And it takes at least a day to do it justice. All universities have that college feel and atmosphere. Pitt has more than most, and its buildings are stunning. Oakland was built as a utopian urban environment, and Pitt was its designated centerpiece. With names like Mellon, Carnegie, Frick, and Westinghouse on the Board of Trustees, the money poured in. And we can see every penny.

Building after building sports a national, state, or city historical marker. At the top of the list is The Cathedral of Learning. It is a 43 story tall gothic masterpiece. It is the tallest educational building in the Western Hemisphere, and second only in height worldwide to Moscow State University (good ole’ MSU). Built in the late 1920’s, this is not your usual college building. It is a breathtaking space inside and out, with soaring ceilings and fireplaces in the student common areas. Of particular note are the “nationality” rooms located on the lower three floors. Countries donated “rooms” to the university done in the style of the donating country. There are 26 of these “nationality rooms,” with 8 more on the drawing boards. Tours are available. Check for times before going.

Even more spectacular is the nondenominational Heinz Memorial Chapel, located steps away from the Cathedral of Learning. The Heinz family donated the money to build this gothic stunner to memorialize Anna Heinz, the mother of Henry John Heinz. This building alone is worth the trip to the University.

I have been in many churches in many places. This one is the perfect storm. In scale, design and beauty, this hits the mark right on. You can spend an hour plus simply studying the floor to ceiling stained glass windows which honor American industry and history right up there with God Almighty. These windows are 73 feet tall, among the tallest in the world. The chapel’s organ is the third installed instrument; each represented the height of technology when installed. The current Reuter Organ was installed in 1995 with 4300 pipes 73 ranks, and 2 consoles. (I don't know what that means, but it sounds impressive, both the statistics AND the organ). There is a Sunday afternoon organ recital series offered at various times throughout the year. Call for details. The University of Pittsburgh Choir offers several concerts in the chapel, the Christmas Concert being the most popular. Its several performances are usually sold out by the beginning of October. If you are ever looking for God, go to one of the concerts. If you go on a Saturday, you may have to skirt the weddings which are weekly and hourly events. The chapel is the site of more than 1500 individual events each year.

Space does not permit me to list the numerous other buildings that grace this lovely campus. That being said, you may want to check out the Stephen Foster Memorial along Forbes Avenue. It is the home of the Stephen Foster Museum and Center for American Music. It also houses two performing arts theaters for the University of Pittsburgh Theater Arts Department. Gothic again, and again.

I have never had any problem finding metered street parking on the weekend in front of the chapel or up Fifth Avenue a little above the chapel. Restaurants are abundant in the Oakland area, from white table cloth to college hangout joints. No space here to elaborate, but look around online. Go Panthers.

CHAGRIN FALLS: Ohio's New England

So you want to go to New England, but you’re afraid of running into Teddy Kennedy or John Kerry? Try Chagrin Falls close to Cleveland. Nestled in the hills of northeast Ohio on the border between Cuyahoga and Geauga Counties, Chagrin Falls is about as close to New England as you can get within a 60 mile radius of Youngstown. They film movies here, folks. It is a stunner, and the numero uno place where my wife and I go to get away for a few hours on the weekend. (Wait a minute…there’s Dennis Kucinich. Ohhhh Nooooo!!!!).

Chagrin Falls was built on the Chagrin River next to….guess what… the falls!!!! It is a four -seasons kind of town that offers its own delights any time of the year. In the summer, the entire village is strolling the streets, eating ice cream or candy purchased at the Chagrin Falls Popcorn Shop located right above the falls. The falls and the river are actually kind of impressive, and you can take the frame steps down into the gorge for an up close and personal. Across the street is the village park, lined with benches and trees and a playground filled with people enjoying a sunny day or a cool evening with their kids and dogs. And these are classy dogs. Where’s Norman Rockwell when you need him?

Autumn is probably the busiest time of year. No matter how you get there, the way into the village is tree lined and the foliage is spectacular. At Christmas, the village dials Hollywood for its absolutely perfect Christmas decorations, and the village stores do their fair share in helping you feel the love. Even the dead of winter offers its delights, especially if you are a tad moody on a gray winter’s day. Stop in at the Gamekeeper’s Tavern and have a drink in its convivial bar, or a hearty lunch or dinner in the restaurant. The atmosphere is as warm as it is cold outside.

Did I mention the Gamekeeper’s Tavern? The restaurant is located in The Inn at Chagrin Falls, which offers a diverse range of overnight accommodations for those looking for a weekend getaway, at prices that are surprisingly reasonable for the Cleveland area. (This is a rapidly growing regional hospitality group owning several venues. It recently purchased and renovated the Welshfield Inn on Rt. 422 about 15 miles east towards Warren). The restaurant is terrific and will be the subject of a coming review in Youngstown Eats. Another place to enjoy drinks and dinner is Blake’s (a Hyde Park Group restaurant) which is located overlooking the falls. Both of these places tend to be a tad pricey, but the food is good, and you can’t beat the ambience. There are also numerous other foodie choices located throughout the village, from pizza to burgers, to suit all price points and tastes.

Our favorite thing to do in Chagrin Falls, besides eating, is to shop. This is a great place for the ladies. Unlike many of these trendy areas which end up being nothing more than an extension of the local mall and attendant national chains, most of the boutiques are operated by locals. (No Pottery Barn or Williams Sonoma here). Chico’s is the most glaring exception. Prices run the gambit. The ladies will always find something. Find Me is a more pricey choice that has found favor with a number of Tippy wives (I mean Canfield women), but it has really good sales.

While the ladies go one way, the guys can head to several clothing stores catering to men. But I would skip all of them and go to Chagrin Hardware. How they keep inventory at this place is beyond me. You can spend an hour just looking at all of the different things this place sells, some of which I suspect have been there since the town was founded. Those that only shop at Home Depot don’t know what they are missing. This place alone is worth the trip.

Street parking is plentiful. Blake’s offer valet parking if you are desperate at dinner time, but it usually isn’t a problem.

Take the Ohio Turnpike to the Route 44 exit. Go north on Route 44 about 10 miles to Route 422. East on Route 422 (it is 4 lanes here) to Route 306 (the Bainbridge exit). Turn right off the exit; then take an immediate left onto Chagrin Road into Chagrin Falls. Allow an hour to get there, about 2 hours to shop and 2 hours for drinks and dinner. If you have some time, Breezewood Gardens is located in Bainbridge on Route 306 just north of Chagrin Road, and is worth the stop, especially in the spring and fall (Christmas is fabulous at this place).