Saturday, February 23, 2008

University of Pittsburgh: Back to School In Style

In the Youngstown area, one is either a Pittsburgh person or a Cleveland person. I am a Pittsburgh person. My father attended graduate school at the University of Pittsburgh. He would catch the 6:00 AM train out of the B&O Station in downtown Youngstown to the B&O Station in downtown Pittsburgh (now Station Square), then take the trolley to the University.

The biggest complaint about Pittsburgh from us Youngstowners is that it is hard to get around. Traffic patterns are a bit strange. But because he went to school there, my father knew his way around, and in turn, showed us. We took many train trips with him into “the city”. It is a great place, and filled with all sorts of day trip things to do.

One of my favorite places to visit is the University of Pittsburgh. Located in the Oakland neighborhood of Pittsburgh, the entire university area is “educational gothic” personified: think Jones Hall from YSU, only on steroids. It is like stepping back into another era. Yes, there are modern buildings all over the campus, but the two dominant structures, the Cathedral of Learning and Heinz Chapel, transport you right back to the big steel era and the robber barons. Is that Andrew Carnegie’s ghost walking around the corner?

The University itself is one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in the United States. It was founded in 1787. It is now a state supported institution with approximately 28,000 undergraduate and graduate students. In addition to its liberal arts college, it has a law school, medical school, dental school, and nursing school, all of which are topped ranked. The University of Pittsburgh Medical Center is one of the topped ranked research facilities in the United States. Most notably, it is where the polio vaccine was developed. The Katz Business School is ranked as most bang for the buck by rating agencies, which is important in business. Of personal interest to me is its ranking as one of the main centers for the study of Eastern European languages, culture and history.

It is a member of the Big East Conference. (Remember last fall when it stunned West Virginia?) The Pitt Panthers lay claim to 9 NCAA National Championships, and have a roster of alumni and coaches that would take up the rest of this article. My father used to take me to the old Pitt Stadium to see Notre Dame when the Irish came to town. In 2001 the University moved to the new Steeler stadium downtown. It's just not the same without that long walk up the hill to see the big game.

What makes Pitt worth a visit is its architecture. And it takes at least a day to do it justice. All universities have that college feel and atmosphere. Pitt has more than most, and its buildings are stunning. Oakland was built as a utopian urban environment, and Pitt was its designated centerpiece. With names like Mellon, Carnegie, Frick, and Westinghouse on the Board of Trustees, the money poured in. And we can see every penny.

Building after building sports a national, state, or city historical marker. At the top of the list is The Cathedral of Learning. It is a 43 story tall gothic masterpiece. It is the tallest educational building in the Western Hemisphere, and second only in height worldwide to Moscow State University (good ole’ MSU). Built in the late 1920’s, this is not your usual college building. It is a breathtaking space inside and out, with soaring ceilings and fireplaces in the student common areas. Of particular note are the “nationality” rooms located on the lower three floors. Countries donated “rooms” to the university done in the style of the donating country. There are 26 of these “nationality rooms,” with 8 more on the drawing boards. Tours are available. Check for times before going.

Even more spectacular is the nondenominational Heinz Memorial Chapel, located steps away from the Cathedral of Learning. The Heinz family donated the money to build this gothic stunner to memorialize Anna Heinz, the mother of Henry John Heinz. This building alone is worth the trip to the University.

I have been in many churches in many places. This one is the perfect storm. In scale, design and beauty, this hits the mark right on. You can spend an hour plus simply studying the floor to ceiling stained glass windows which honor American industry and history right up there with God Almighty. These windows are 73 feet tall, among the tallest in the world. The chapel’s organ is the third installed instrument; each represented the height of technology when installed. The current Reuter Organ was installed in 1995 with 4300 pipes 73 ranks, and 2 consoles. (I don't know what that means, but it sounds impressive, both the statistics AND the organ). There is a Sunday afternoon organ recital series offered at various times throughout the year. Call for details. The University of Pittsburgh Choir offers several concerts in the chapel, the Christmas Concert being the most popular. Its several performances are usually sold out by the beginning of October. If you are ever looking for God, go to one of the concerts. If you go on a Saturday, you may have to skirt the weddings which are weekly and hourly events. The chapel is the site of more than 1500 individual events each year.

Space does not permit me to list the numerous other buildings that grace this lovely campus. That being said, you may want to check out the Stephen Foster Memorial along Forbes Avenue. It is the home of the Stephen Foster Museum and Center for American Music. It also houses two performing arts theaters for the University of Pittsburgh Theater Arts Department. Gothic again, and again.

I have never had any problem finding metered street parking on the weekend in front of the chapel or up Fifth Avenue a little above the chapel. Restaurants are abundant in the Oakland area, from white table cloth to college hangout joints. No space here to elaborate, but look around online. Go Panthers.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

CHAGRIN FALLS: Ohio's New England


So you want to go to New England, but you’re afraid of running into Teddy Kennedy or John Kerry? Try Chagrin Falls close to Cleveland. Nestled in the hills of northeast Ohio on the border between Cuyahoga and Geauga Counties, Chagrin Falls is about as close to New England as you can get within a 60 mile radius of Youngstown. They film movies here, folks. It is a stunner, and the numero uno place where my wife and I go to get away for a few hours on the weekend. (Wait a minute…there’s Dennis Kucinich. Ohhhh Nooooo!!!!).

Chagrin Falls was built on the Chagrin River next to….guess what… the falls!!!! It is a four -seasons kind of town that offers its own delights any time of the year. In the summer, the entire village is strolling the streets, eating ice cream or candy purchased at the Chagrin Falls Popcorn Shop located right above the falls. The falls and the river are actually kind of impressive, and you can take the frame steps down into the gorge for an up close and personal. Across the street is the village park, lined with benches and trees and a playground filled with people enjoying a sunny day or a cool evening with their kids and dogs. And these are classy dogs. Where’s Norman Rockwell when you need him?

Autumn is probably the busiest time of year. No matter how you get there, the way into the village is tree lined and the foliage is spectacular. At Christmas, the village dials Hollywood for its absolutely perfect Christmas decorations, and the village stores do their fair share in helping you feel the love. Even the dead of winter offers its delights, especially if you are a tad moody on a gray winter’s day. Stop in at the Gamekeeper’s Tavern and have a drink in its convivial bar, or a hearty lunch or dinner in the restaurant. The atmosphere is as warm as it is cold outside.

Did I mention the Gamekeeper’s Tavern? The restaurant is located in The Inn at Chagrin Falls, which offers a diverse range of overnight accommodations for those looking for a weekend getaway, at prices that are surprisingly reasonable for the Cleveland area. (This is a rapidly growing regional hospitality group owning several venues. It recently purchased and renovated the Welshfield Inn on Rt. 422 about 15 miles east towards Warren). The restaurant is terrific and will be the subject of a coming review in Youngstown Eats. Another place to enjoy drinks and dinner is Blake’s (a Hyde Park Group restaurant) which is located overlooking the falls. Both of these places tend to be a tad pricey, but the food is good, and you can’t beat the ambience. There are also numerous other foodie choices located throughout the village, from pizza to burgers, to suit all price points and tastes.

Our favorite thing to do in Chagrin Falls, besides eating, is to shop. This is a great place for the ladies. Unlike many of these trendy areas which end up being nothing more than an extension of the local mall and attendant national chains, most of the boutiques are operated by locals. (No Pottery Barn or Williams Sonoma here). Chico’s is the most glaring exception. Prices run the gambit. The ladies will always find something. Find Me is a more pricey choice that has found favor with a number of Tippy wives (I mean Canfield women), but it has really good sales.

While the ladies go one way, the guys can head to several clothing stores catering to men. But I would skip all of them and go to Chagrin Hardware. How they keep inventory at this place is beyond me. You can spend an hour just looking at all of the different things this place sells, some of which I suspect have been there since the town was founded. Those that only shop at Home Depot don’t know what they are missing. This place alone is worth the trip.

Street parking is plentiful. Blake’s offer valet parking if you are desperate at dinner time, but it usually isn’t a problem.

Take the Ohio Turnpike to the Route 44 exit. Go north on Route 44 about 10 miles to Route 422. East on Route 422 (it is 4 lanes here) to Route 306 (the Bainbridge exit). Turn right off the exit; then take an immediate left onto Chagrin Road into Chagrin Falls. Allow an hour to get there, about 2 hours to shop and 2 hours for drinks and dinner. If you have some time, Breezewood Gardens is located in Bainbridge on Route 306 just north of Chagrin Road, and is worth the stop, especially in the spring and fall (Christmas is fabulous at this place).