Saturday, February 23, 2008

University of Pittsburgh: Back to School In Style

In the Youngstown area, one is either a Pittsburgh person or a Cleveland person. I am a Pittsburgh person. My father attended graduate school at the University of Pittsburgh. He would catch the 6:00 AM train out of the B&O Station in downtown Youngstown to the B&O Station in downtown Pittsburgh (now Station Square), then take the trolley to the University.

The biggest complaint about Pittsburgh from us Youngstowners is that it is hard to get around. Traffic patterns are a bit strange. But because he went to school there, my father knew his way around, and in turn, showed us. We took many train trips with him into “the city”. It is a great place, and filled with all sorts of day trip things to do.

One of my favorite places to visit is the University of Pittsburgh. Located in the Oakland neighborhood of Pittsburgh, the entire university area is “educational gothic” personified: think Jones Hall from YSU, only on steroids. It is like stepping back into another era. Yes, there are modern buildings all over the campus, but the two dominant structures, the Cathedral of Learning and Heinz Chapel, transport you right back to the big steel era and the robber barons. Is that Andrew Carnegie’s ghost walking around the corner?

The University itself is one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in the United States. It was founded in 1787. It is now a state supported institution with approximately 28,000 undergraduate and graduate students. In addition to its liberal arts college, it has a law school, medical school, dental school, and nursing school, all of which are topped ranked. The University of Pittsburgh Medical Center is one of the topped ranked research facilities in the United States. Most notably, it is where the polio vaccine was developed. The Katz Business School is ranked as most bang for the buck by rating agencies, which is important in business. Of personal interest to me is its ranking as one of the main centers for the study of Eastern European languages, culture and history.

It is a member of the Big East Conference. (Remember last fall when it stunned West Virginia?) The Pitt Panthers lay claim to 9 NCAA National Championships, and have a roster of alumni and coaches that would take up the rest of this article. My father used to take me to the old Pitt Stadium to see Notre Dame when the Irish came to town. In 2001 the University moved to the new Steeler stadium downtown. It's just not the same without that long walk up the hill to see the big game.

What makes Pitt worth a visit is its architecture. And it takes at least a day to do it justice. All universities have that college feel and atmosphere. Pitt has more than most, and its buildings are stunning. Oakland was built as a utopian urban environment, and Pitt was its designated centerpiece. With names like Mellon, Carnegie, Frick, and Westinghouse on the Board of Trustees, the money poured in. And we can see every penny.

Building after building sports a national, state, or city historical marker. At the top of the list is The Cathedral of Learning. It is a 43 story tall gothic masterpiece. It is the tallest educational building in the Western Hemisphere, and second only in height worldwide to Moscow State University (good ole’ MSU). Built in the late 1920’s, this is not your usual college building. It is a breathtaking space inside and out, with soaring ceilings and fireplaces in the student common areas. Of particular note are the “nationality” rooms located on the lower three floors. Countries donated “rooms” to the university done in the style of the donating country. There are 26 of these “nationality rooms,” with 8 more on the drawing boards. Tours are available. Check for times before going.

Even more spectacular is the nondenominational Heinz Memorial Chapel, located steps away from the Cathedral of Learning. The Heinz family donated the money to build this gothic stunner to memorialize Anna Heinz, the mother of Henry John Heinz. This building alone is worth the trip to the University.

I have been in many churches in many places. This one is the perfect storm. In scale, design and beauty, this hits the mark right on. You can spend an hour plus simply studying the floor to ceiling stained glass windows which honor American industry and history right up there with God Almighty. These windows are 73 feet tall, among the tallest in the world. The chapel’s organ is the third installed instrument; each represented the height of technology when installed. The current Reuter Organ was installed in 1995 with 4300 pipes 73 ranks, and 2 consoles. (I don't know what that means, but it sounds impressive, both the statistics AND the organ). There is a Sunday afternoon organ recital series offered at various times throughout the year. Call for details. The University of Pittsburgh Choir offers several concerts in the chapel, the Christmas Concert being the most popular. Its several performances are usually sold out by the beginning of October. If you are ever looking for God, go to one of the concerts. If you go on a Saturday, you may have to skirt the weddings which are weekly and hourly events. The chapel is the site of more than 1500 individual events each year.

Space does not permit me to list the numerous other buildings that grace this lovely campus. That being said, you may want to check out the Stephen Foster Memorial along Forbes Avenue. It is the home of the Stephen Foster Museum and Center for American Music. It also houses two performing arts theaters for the University of Pittsburgh Theater Arts Department. Gothic again, and again.

I have never had any problem finding metered street parking on the weekend in front of the chapel or up Fifth Avenue a little above the chapel. Restaurants are abundant in the Oakland area, from white table cloth to college hangout joints. No space here to elaborate, but look around online. Go Panthers.

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